Succulents are an ever-popular plant choice for outdoor gardens and indoor home decor. They have interesting and unique-shaped foliage in a variety of colors, and many of them flower. They’re easy to grow and can withstand neglect, so they’re a great choice for beginners. If you like the idea of having greenery in your home but haven’t had great success with houseplants in the past, try growing succulents.

In regions where winter temperatures stay well above freezing, just about any succulent variety can be grown outdoors. However, if you live in a region that experiences heavy frosts or winter freezes, you’ll need to be more selective about what varieties you plant in your outdoor garden.

In this article we’ll review the differences between growing succulents in the garden outdoors and growing them indoors as houseplants, with a focus on growing succulents outdoors.  We’ll also have a look at some popular varieties for each setting.

Types of Succulents

Succulents are native to a range of habitats, including deserts, grasslands (including alpine areas), and tropical regions. They share the characteristic of storing water in their leaves and stems, a preference for bright light and a need for well-draining soil. However, their specific growing requirements vary depending on their native habitat; desert, alpine or tropical.

Each variety has internal biological adaptations to survive their very different specific environments. These adaptations include differing root and leaf structures, water storage mechanisms and internal metabolisms for photosynthesis. 

Desert succulents have adapted to thrive in harsh environments with extreme temperatures, drought and well-draining nutrient-poor soils. They need low humidity, intense sunlight and infrequent watering. They have deep root systems to seek out water or they grow low to the ground where temperatures are less extreme. Examples of desert succulents include aloes, some sedum and cacti.

Grassland succulents have different adaptations than the desert succulents. They prefer more moderate temperatures, in environments with limited inconsistent rainfall and well-draining nutrient-poor soils. They have shallow root systems to quickly take up moisture before it’s lost to evaporation. Examples of grassland succulents include Echeveria and Crassula.

Tropical succulents are more tolerant of moderate humidity than their desert cousins and prefer bright filtered sunlight (or part shade.) They need more frequent – but still limited – watering than other succulents. Tropicals are often epiphytes (growing on other plants rather than in the soil) and “understory” plants (growing beneath the cover of taller denser vegetation.) Examples of tropical succulents include Snake plant, hoyas and air plants.

For the purposes of gardening, succulents can be divided into two categories: Cold hardy (outdoor) and frost tender (indoor). The difference between them is their tolerance of frost and cold temperatures.

Cold hardy succulents are those that can safely be grown outdoors in regions that experience winter temperatures below freezing. In contrast, frost tender varieties can’t tolerate temperatures near or below freezing. These varieties are more often grown indoors as houseplants.

Cold Hardy (Outdoor) Succulents

Your choice of succulents for the outdoor garden depends on your region’s growing zone and winter conditions. Cold hardy succulents are those that can survive freezing winter temperatures. Some of them tolerate temperatures only a few degrees below freezing while others can survive temperatures down to as low as  – 40 degrees (See below, “Outdoor Succulent Varieties”).

Most succulents – with a few tropical exceptions – are native to hot arid regions that receive little and infrequent rainfall. They have adapted to conditions that are sunny and dry, with low humidity and gritty well-draining nutrient-poor soil.

There are also a few varieties that are native to less extreme alpine regions, including Cliff Maids (Lewesia cotyledon) and Hens n chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) These are among the cold hardy varieties that can be grown outdoors in cooler winter regions. (See below, “Outdoor Succulent Varieties”)

Growing Conditions For Outdoor Succulents

The preferred growing conditions for succulents differ widely from one variety to the next. Some, such as cacti and agave, can tolerate desert-like conditions, while others prefer a little protection from extreme sun and heat.

When choosing varieties for your outdoor garden, it’s important to be familiar with the specific needs of each one. That said, most cold hardy succulents share in preferred growing conditions.

Light

Most succulents grow best with about six hours of direct sun in a day. In hotter southerly regions, where the sun is more intense, succulents prefer direct morning light or bright indirect sun all day, with protection from direct mid-day sun. 

Soil

All succulents need gritty well-draining soil that doesn’t retain too much moisture and dries out between waterings. Sandy soil is ideal for growing succulents, while heavy clay soil should be avoided.

Good drainage is especially important in regions where winter temperatures reach near or below freezing. Cold temperatures make all plants more sensitive to excess moisture. Cold combined with wet soil can be the kiss of death, especially for succulents.

Fertilizer

In their native habitat, most succulents grow in gritty nutrient-poor soils. Most home garden soils will provide adequate support for succulent growth without the need of added nutrients.

Applying heavy fertilizer doses to succulents won’t make them grow bigger, better or faster. In fact, succulents often suffer damage known as “fertilizer burn” when fertilizer is applied too frequently – or in too concentrated a dose. In addition, excessive nutrients will produce fast but weak growth with floppy stems, particularly problematic for varieties that grow tall erect stems.

Temperature

There are so many cold hardy succulents to choose from, with varieties suitable to grow in USDA hardiness zones  from 3 to 9. Most of them can tolerate temperatures near or slightly below freezing, while others, such as sedum ‘Purple Emperor’, can survive temperatures as low as -40 F (-40 C).

At the higher end of the temperature scale, most succulents – other than cacti – won’t tolerate excessive heat beyond USDA zone 9. There are a few that are hardy up to zone 12, but they are more often grown as houseplants indoors. 

Watering

How often you need to water your garden succulents will depend on the growing conditions, where you live and how often it rains. Succulents grown outdoors need soil with good drainage and prefer to dry out between watering. It’s best to give them deep and infrequent waterings.

Frost Tender (Indoor) Succulents

Frost tender succulents can be grown outdoors in temperatures down to 40 degrees F (4 C), with a few varieties hardy down to 28 F (-2 C). In regions with winter temperatures well below freezing, frost tender succulents should be grown in containers and brought indoors until late spring. 

Frost tender succulents are more often grown indoors as houseplants. These containers can be put outdoors for the summer once temperatures are warm enough (See below, “Moving Indoor Succulents Outdoors For Summer”). However, they must be brought back indoors before fall temperatures drop below 40 degrees F (4 C). 

Growing Conditions For Indoor Succulents

To successfully grow succulents indoors, they must be given the proper conditions that closely imitate their natural habitat.

Container with drainage

Succulents prefer growing conditions on the dry side and don’t like soil that stays wet. Along with the proper soil (see below) it’s important to grow succulents in containers with proper drainage. That means a pot with holes in the bottom where excess water can freely drain away. Contrary to popular misunderstanding, adding a layer of gravel to a container without drain holes will not provide adequate drainage for a plant, especially succulents that are sensitive to excessive soil moisture.

Light

How much light a succulent needs will depend on the variety. Most varieties need at least six hours of direct sun to grow well. Plant lights can be used to simulate sunlight if you don’t have a windowsill that can provide adequate natural light.

There are a few varieties, such as snake plant (Sansevieria trifaciata) or Thanksgiving Cactus (Zygocactus truncatus), that can tolerate lower light levels.

Soil

Most house plants are tropicals that like a potting mix with plenty of organic matter (e.g. peat moss or coconut coir). Succulents, on the other hand, are native to regions with sandy or gravelly soil; most of them prefer a potting mix with less organic matter and more gritty material such as coarse sand or perlite (the little white bits in commercial mixes). These materials don’t hold moisture like organic materials. They also create lots of air pockets in the soil, so water drains away well. 

Commercial potting mixes labeled specifically for succulents or cacti are best options. They will have the right balance of gritty material and organic matter.

If  the potting mix doesn’t drain well and retains too much moisture, your succulents will quickly succumb to root rot.

Fertilizer

Most succulents  in their native habitat grow in gritty soil low in nutrients. As houseplants, they need minimal fertilizing. How much and when you feed them will depend on the specific variety. You can use a balanced houseplant fertilizer, diluted to half the recommended strength, once in the spring for winter dormant varieties. Be sure not to make it too strong; succulent roots are sensitive and can suffer fertilizer burn. In addition, excess nutrients can result in weak, floppy growth.

There are also commercially available fertilizers specifically formulated for succulents or cacti.

Temperature

Indoor succulents grow best in temperatures from 55 to 75 F (13-24 C). Many can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures in the winter when they go dormant. Keep their temperature needs in mind when you decide where you’d like to put your succulents indoors. Avoid locations exposed to cool drafts or hot dry air from heating vents.

Watering

The most common mistake of indoor succulent care is over-watering. Most succulents are drought tolerant and need infrequent watering. Too much moisture will quickly lead to root rot and death of the plant.

There are a few exceptions to the rule, though, so always check the needs of your specific variety. (See below, “Indoor Varieties”)

Container plants should be watered when the soil is completely dry. The container should then be given a thorough deep watering with room-temperature – not cold – water. Add the water across the whole soil surface a little at a time, until it starts to flow out the pot’s drainage holes. This way you know the soil through the whole pot is well-soaked.

Be sure to apply the water to the soil around the plant, and not onto the foliage. Water left sitting on succulent leaves for too long can cause them to rot. For this reason it’s also not a good idea to use a spray bottle to mist your succulents – except for air plants (see below)

Note: If you notice the leaves on your indoor succulents looking wrinkly and starting to shrivel, it is usually a sign the plant is getting too little water. However, it could also mean the plants are getting too much water; the soil is too wet and the roots can’t take up water to the plant. Always check the soil before watering.

Moving Indoor Succulents Outdoors For Summer

Succulents grown indoors as house plants benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer. However, they need to be transitioned gradually to the outdoor environment to adjust to the new conditions (e.g. air temperature and sunlight levels). 

Cold sensitive succulents grown indoors shouldn’t be moved outdoors until air temperatures are reliably and consistently above 50 F (10 C) at night.

Start your indoor succulents outdoors in a spot with bright indirect light (i.e. bright shade with no direct sun). Sunlight outdoors is more intense than the sunlight that shines indoors through a window. A succulent suddenly placed into six hours of direct outdoor sun will likely suffer irreversible sunburn damage. 

Once your indoor succulents have been outside in the bright shade for a few days, you can gradually increase the amount of direct sun they get each day over the course of a week to ten days. Move the pots to a spot that gets morning sun for an hour then return them to the bright shade. Repeat this process for about a week, gradually increasing the time in direct sun by about an hour a day. Always protect your indoor succulents from direct mid-day or late-afternoon sun.

How long it takes to transition an indoor succulent to outdoor light levels will depend on where you live. The further south you are, the stronger the sunlight and the longer it will take your succulents to adapt. Increase their sun exposure more gradually, adding less than an hour of direct sun each day.

Once your container-grown succulents have transitioned to outdoor conditions, check the moisture level of the soil more frequently than you did when the plants were inside. You’ll probably need to water them more often when they’re growing outdoors.

Indoor and Outdoor Succulent Varieties

The choice of succulents is wide, and includes many easy-to-find varieties as well as several rarer more unique varieties often sought-after by avid collectors.

The following lists describe some of the popular common succulents suitable for growing in outdoor gardens or indoors as houseplants.

Outdoor (cold hardy) Succulent Varieties

The following list includes some of the more popular cold hardy succulent varieties for planting in outdoor gardens. 

Whether or not you can grow these varieties in your garden will depend on your growing zone. If your winter temperatures get too cold, you can grow these succulents in containers and bring them indoors over the winter.

Sedums; Stonecrop (Sedum sp.) 

There are many varieties of sedums that are hardy well below freezing. Their common name “stonecrop” refers to the fact that in their native habitats they can be found growing amongst rocks or on stony outcrops.

Sedums prefer full sun, are drought tolerant once established and tolerate varying soil conditions as long as they have good drainage. It is especially important they don’t sit in wet soil over the winter.

Sedums don’t like overly-rich soil. Garden soil should provide adequate nutrients without the need for added fertilizers. Soil that is too rich will result in weak leggy growth, especially in the upright varieties.

Outdoor sedums have three growth habits:

Creeping varieties that form a dense groundcover spreading several feet

Tall varieties that have an upright growth habit and grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall and wide

Trailing varieties that form looser mats than creeping varieties and are good for spilling over rock walls or planted in hanging baskets. 

Sedums have foliage ranging in color from deep green, blue-green, lime green, silvery grey, creamy yellow to shades of pink, purple and red. They produce flat clusters of star-shaped flowers of red, pink, white or yellow at varying times of year.

Sedums make beautiful low maintenance additions to the outdoor landscape. They’re perfect for rock gardens, bordering gravel pathways or blended in amongst other drought-tolerant perennials.

In milder winter regions sedums are evergreen. In colder climates, they die back for the winter and regrow in the spring.

The following sedums are common varieties that can be grown in the garden outdoors where winter temperatures allow.

Two-row Stonecrop (Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s blood’)

Dragon’s Blood is a mat-forming ground cover sedum. It’s sometimes called Two-row stonecrop because the leaves grow densely in two opposite rows along the stems. 

Dragon’s Blood adds ever-changing color to the garden, with flat oval leaves that start the garden season a rich green, develop red edges over the summer and finally turn crimson red with the arrival of cooler fall temperatures. In mid to late summer, the plant produces deep red flowers and continues flowering until first frost.

Like most sedums, Dragon’s Blood is drought-tolerant once established, requires well-draining soil and not a lot of fertilizer.

Broadleaf stonecrop; Pacific stonecrop (Sedum spathulifolium) 

Broadleaf or Pacific stonecrop is native to the west coast of North America,  growing on rocky outcrops or cliff faces from British Columbia, to Oregon and down to southern California. It’s a low-growing variety, forming dense evergreen mats of small silvery blue-green rosettes. The foliage takes on a wine-red tinge in winter. In summer, it produces yellow flowers borne at the tips of their own sturdy stems with small sparse red-tinged leaves.

Broadleaf stonecrop is a low-maintenance drought tolerant plant that requires infrequent watering or fertilizer. It prefers dry nutrient-poor thin soils and can tolerate part shade. It’s a good choice for rock gardens or as a groundcover. 

Autumn Joy Stonecrop (Hylotelephium telephium ‘Autumn Joy’ formerly Sedum telephium ‘Autumn Joy’)

‘Autumn Joy’ is a cultivar resulting from a cross between a sedum, Sedum telephium, and a variety of ice plant, Hylotelephium spectabile. It’s a clump-forming variety with grey-green scalloped leaves growing alternately along thick upright stems.

Autumn Joy prefers full sun but can handle some shade in hotter climates. It thrives in sandy, well-draining soils with medium to low fertility. Too much shade or nutrients will result in weak leggy growth. 

‘Autumn Joy’ is a good choice for adding late season interest to the garden with its tight clusters of star-shaped flowers in late summer through to frost. They’re long-lasting, opening a light pink, gradually turning a deeper rosy red then developing into a rusty-brown dried seed head that can last all winter.

Blue Spruce stonecrop (Sedum reflexum)

Blue Spruce is another popular sedum variety for the outdoor garden. It gets its common name from the grey-blue narrow succulent leaves arranged around the stems like needles on a spruce tree.

Blue Spruce is a low-growing mat-forming sedum that’s evergreen in regions with milder winters. It flowers earlier than some other varieties, producing yellow flowers – borne on their own stems – in early to mid summer. It spreads quickly and makes a great ground cover in hot dry garden locations, or in rock gardens where it will trail over the edges.

Like many other sedums, Blue Spruce is a low-maintenance garden plant that requires only occasional watering and rarely any fertilizer. In fact, too many nutrients – from rich soil or added fertilizer – will result in weak floppy growth.

Hens and Chicks; Houseleek (Sempervivum sp.)

Varieties of Sempervivum are similar-looking to Echiveria (see below, “Frost Tender Varieties”) and the two are easily confused. They both grow in rosettes and on quick glance look alike, but that’s where the similarities end.

Hens and Chicks are native to cool, mountainous regions, and are cold tolerant. They can grow outdoors in USDA zones 4-10, where cold dry conditions bring out their interesting colorations. 

Hens and Chicks leaves are generally not as thick as those of Echiveria and have a distinct point on their tips. There are several varieties available commercially, ranging in size and color, including shades of green (sometimes with red leaf tips), grey, pink, red, purple and bronze-brown. 

Hens and Chicks spread and form large mats through short underground stems (stolons) that produce offsets (chicks) around a mature rosette (the hen). Individual rosettes die after flowering, leaving several new offsets to fill the space. Dead rosettes can be cut out from the clump.

Common Houseleek  (Sempervivum tectorum)

The Common houseleek is perhaps the most familiar member of the group. There are several cultivars available commercially, with leaves in colors from grey-green, copper, purple and rich red. Star-shaped purple-pink flowers appear on flower stalks in early summer. 

Cobweb Hens ‘n chicks; Cobweb Houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum)

The interesting feature on the Cobweb houseleek is the web-like white hairs that grow from the tips of the leaves, giving the appearance of a spider’s web covering the rosette. The small rosettes are grey-green, sometimes tinged red, and grow up to 1 inch in diameter.

It produces star-shaped pink flowers on stems that grow about 5 inches (12 cm) tall.

There are many interesting cultivars of cobweb houseleek. They come in different sizes and colors, but they all share the trait of fine white spider web hairs. 

Sempervivum ‘Fire Dragon’ (Sempervivum calcareum ‘Fire dragon’)

Fire Dragon is considered one of the easiest of Sempervivums to grow. It is probably one of the most familiar-looking, with its pointy silvery-green leaves tipped with deep red. The colors become more intense as the rosettes age and the more sun the plant gets. Reds also become more intense in cooler weather.

Ice plant (Delosperma cooperi)

Ice plant has short and narrow glossy green succulent leaves. It is a vigorous grower and once established it quickly forms large dense mats of greenery. There are many cultivars available, with daisy-like flowers in colors including pink, yellow, orange, red, white, purple and  bicolor. They bloom continuously from late spring through to fall, adding rich color to rock gardens or open gravelly spaces where little else will grow.

Ice plants are native to areas of South Africa that get rain in summer, so as a garden plant they require more regular watering than other succulents. In regions that get winter rain or snow, protect the plants with row cover or straw, and be sure they’re planted in spots where the soil drains well and doesn’t stay wet in winter. (The wetter the soil in winter, the less cold hardy a plant will be.)

Ice plants are perennials in zones with mild enough winters and where the soil has very good drainage. In colder regions, ice plants are often grown as an annual because they flower all summer. They’re a good choice for summer hanging baskets and will grow quickly to trail down over the sides.

Lewisia, Cliff Maids (Lewesia cotyledon or Siskiou lewisia)

Lewisia grows in flattened rosettes of long dark green spoon-shaped  leaves. It is sometimes called Cliff Maids because it grows on rocky cliffs at higher elevations in its native habitat from Oregon to California.  In early spring or summer, it sends out 6-inch (15 cm) long flower stalks from around the base of the rosette, bearing loose clusters of multi-petalled tube-shaped flowers. The flowers are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, in colors ranging from pale pink to salmon orange, yellow, magenta and white. Flowers are often shaded with streaks in multiple colors.

Lewisia is easy to grow, likes full sun and moderately fertile, well-draining soil. Like many other succulents, Lewisia is drought tolerant and needs protection from winter wet conditions. With its strong root system and deep tap root for growing on cliff sides, Lewisia is a good choice for planted rock walls.

Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia sp)

There are several different species of Prickly Pear cactus (Opuntia). They are the most cold tolerant of the lowland cacti, with species native to many parts of North America, from Northern Canada, south into the US and throughout much of Mexico. (Fun fact: The Prickly Pear – no particular species – is the designated state plant of Texas, where more than one species can be found.)

Prickly pear cacti don’t have true leaves. Instead, they have modified fleshy stems made up of several segments or “pads”. These gray-green flat oval pads are covered in spines, some large and easy-to-spot, others in small clusters but no less prickly.

Prickly pears are named for the sweet fruits they produce. These can be used for juice or making jams and jellies. The pads are also edible, and are used in Native American and Mexican traditional cuisines.   

Prickly pear cactus planted in the garden might not bloom for the first few years after planting. To encourage good growth, they should be planted in the sunniest spot possible and fertilized once a month in spring and summer with a 5-10-10 fertilizer.

Eastern Prickly Pear (Opuntia humifusa)

The Eastern prickly pear is the only cactus native to Eastern regions of the US, with a very narrow range in Canada. In the US it’s found from Massachusetts to Florida in the east and from South Dakota to eastern Texas in the west. Its range in Canada is limited to a small area in the very southwest of Ontario, at Point Pelee and on Pelee Island in Lake Erie, where it grows in open and semi-open dry sandy environments.

The oval pads of Eastern Prickly pear form segmented branches that grow into wide mounds up to 18 inches (45 cm) high. Pads are covered in clusters of tiny reddish-brown stiff barbed hairs that are very irritating if they penetrate the skin. Pale yellow papery flowers are borne from the pad tips at the end of the branches. Flowers are followed by small spine-covered edible fruit.

Plains Prickly Pear (Opuntia polyacantha) 

Plains Prickly Pear is a cactus native to North America. It can be found in the central and Western US, Western Canadian provinces as far north as the Yukon Territory and northern Mexico. The plants grow in low mounds up to several feet wide. 

Plains prickly pear blooms on the pads at the tip of each branch, bearing golden yellow flowers that become more reddish as they age. Flowers are followed by small red-purple spine-covered berries.

Fragile Prickly Pear; Shattering Cactus (Opuntia fragilis)

Fragile Prickly Pear is native to much of western North America. It is found further north than any other cactus species in the world, from northern Alberta, 

The egg-shaped fleshy pads are a dull dark green. They’re up to 2 inches (5 cm) long and ½ to 1 inch (1 – 2.5 cm) wide with a waxy surface. The pads have multiple clusters of 3-8 spines up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long growing across the surface.

Fragile prickly pear is a low-growing sprawling plant, forming mats up to 2 feet (60 cm) across. The pads detach from the rest of the plant very easily (hence the plant’s common names). A word of caution: Just a slight touch of the plant and it will sink its spines painfully into your skin and detach the pad from the rest of the plant! 

In summer, Fragile Prickly Pear produces showy yellow flowers 1.5 – 2 inches (4 – 5 cm) across. It produces fewer flowers than other Prickly pear species, and some plants fail to flower every year.

Yucca (Yucca sp)

There are several varieties of Yucca plants, from small shrubs to large trees. Some are fast growing, putting on 2 feet (60 cm) a year, while others are slow growing, adding about 5 inches (13 cm) annually.

Most yucca species are native to warm arid regions but some have adapted to colder conditions and can survive temperatures below freezing. They can tolerate harsh conditions such as nutrient-poor sandy well-draining soil, full sun, drought and salt-spray.

The other trait yuccas share is their sharp leaf tips and edges that can cut the skin or cause eye injury. They should be planted well away from pathways or children’s play areas, and spaces frequented by pets.

Some interesting varieties include:

Soapweed (Yucca glauca): This is a cold-tolerant species hardy in USDA zones 3-9. It’s one of the best winter-hardy varieties. The plant grows a clump of long stiff gray-green leaves from a short woody base. The narrow leaves grow 8-28 inches (20-70 cm) long and form a clump 1-6 feet tall.  A cluster of pendulous bell-shaped creamy white flowers are produced along the tip of a stem 39-78 inches (100-200 cm) tall.

Adam’s Needle (Yucca filamentosa): An interesting feature that sets this yucca apart from other varieties is the fibrous filaments running along the edges of its deep green leaves (hence its Latin name ‘filamentosa’). The rigid sword-like leaves grow in clumps 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) tall and wide. In early to mid-summer they produce a dramatic 5-8 foot tall flower stalk with a cluster of creamy-white nodding bell-shaped flowers down the tip. ‘Color guard’ is a variegated form with eye-catching yellow and green foliage.

Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia): This iconic tree is the largest yucca species, reaching heights of 30 feet (9 m). It is found growing in the Mojave desert of the southwestern US.

Indoor (frost tender) Succulent Varieties

There are so many succulent varieties available today that make great houseplants; from the common easy-to-grow varieties to the more unusual and interesting varieties.

The following list includes some of the common and popular succulent varieties. These ones are easy to grow and good choices for beginners.

Echiveria sp

There are several varieties of echiveria. They are similar-looking to Sempervivums (see below), with leaves that grow in a rosette. Echiveria are sometimes labelled with the common name Hens and Chicks but that name more correctly applies to the Sempervivums. The main difference between the two  is their cold tolerance; Echiveria aren’t frost hardy whereas Sempervivums can survive temperatures well below freezing.

Echiveria leaves are spoon-shaped, most with rounded tips, while others have a slight point (not as pronounced as Sempervivums). They come in soft colors from silver-grey, pale green, pink, orange and two-toned. The more light Echiveria get, the more vibrant their coloring will be. Most have foliage covered in a thin white waxy coating and a few are covered in a thin coating of fine silvery hairs. 

Echiveria thrive in warm sunny environments and like other succulents, are adapted to low water conditions. They’re perfect for drought-tolerant gardens in regions where winters remain relatively mild. They can tolerate the occasional light frost but are not considered cold hardy at temperatures below 20 F (-6 C). If grown outdoors in regions where winter temperatures hover near or just below freezing, Echiveria benefit from winter protection and the soil must have good drainage (i.e. that won’t sit wet)

Echiveria are more often grown indoors, where they make easy-care houseplants. They’re drought tolerant, requiring infrequent watering, and stay small enough to put on a windowsill or the side of a desk. They need at least six hours of direct sun per day. 

Echiveria grown as houseplants can be put outdoors for summer and brought inside for the winter. They need to be transitioned from indoor to outdoor conditions.

Echeveria peacockii ‘Desmetiana’ 

Mexican Snowballs; Wax Agave (Echiveria elegans)                                                                   

Aloe vera, burn plant, Elephant’s gall, Medicine plant (Aloe barbadensis)

There are many different varieties of aloe plants, but the most common is aloe vera, a tropical succulent commonly grown as a houseplant well known for its medicinal and cosmetic properties. Its thick fleshy leaves store moisture in the form of a gel which is the main source of its beneficial properties. It should be noted that the outer layers of the leaves contain a compound known as saponins, which can be toxic to pets if ingested, and can cause liver damage in humans.

Aloe vera plants grow a rosette of long narrow fleshy leaves that can reach 18 inches (45 cm) long. The leaves are grey-green and have small white spines like teeth along the margins. The plant has low water needs but when it becomes drought stressed, the leaves take on a purplish red hue.

When watering aloe vera, be careful not to pour water directly onto the rosette of leaves to prevent leaf rot.

Jade plant or Money tree  (Crassula argentea or C. ovata)

Jade plant is a sturdy-stemmed tree-like succulent with glossy dark-green fleshy egg-sha  ped leaves (hence its Latin name “ovata” meaning egg-shaped). The leaves are 1 – 3 inches (2.5 – 8 cm) long and .75 – 1.5 inches (2 – 4 cm) wide and are edged with red tinges when grown in sufficient light.

The leaves grow directly from the tree-like trunk and side branches in opposite pairs. Each pair grows directly out from the stem at a right angle from the previous pair. Most of the leaves are clustered at the growing tips rather than evenly-spaced along the branches. The trunks and branches are green when young and mature to a grey-brown.

Jade plant doesn’t mind being pot-bound and rarely needs repotting. However, the top growth can become tall and full and so heavy that it causes a smaller pot to topple over. Then it’s time to give your Jade plant a slightly bigger pot.

Haworthia sp and Haworthiopsis sp

The plant genus Haworthia was split into two groups (genera) by the world of science in 2013 and a new genus Haworthiopsis was created. The last part of the name is from the Greek “opsis” meaning “likeness” In other words, members of the new genus have a likeness to the original genus, Haworthia.

Members of both genera grow rosettes of leaves, similar-looking to aloes (which are in the same plant family Asphodelaceae). The difference between the genera is that Haworthia have smooth leaves with thin, almost translucent, skin, while members of the genus Haworthiopsis have thicker-skinned leaves with distinctive horizontal stripes of white or red bumps (tubercles).

Haworthia and Haworthiopsis are slow-growing and tend to stay small,  under 12 inches (30 cm) tall. Mature plants will produce new offsets around the base. These offsets can be left to grow into a dense clump, or gently detached and transplanted to grow into new plants.

In their native habitat, Haworthia and Haworthiopsis grow in part shade or filtered light. They can tolerate lower light conditions than some other succulents, making them a versatile houseplant. Although they can tolerate less light, they’ll look their best when placed in bright indirect light or filtered sun (e.g. beside a window that’s covered with sheer curtains). If they get too little light, the leaves will grow long and thin (leggy) and darker varieties will lose their coloring.                     

Cathedral Window Haworthia; Window Haworthia (Haworthia cymbiformis)

The foliage is the distinguishing feature of Haworthia cymbiformis. It forms a small compact rosette of 2-inch long triangular leaves. The leaves are fleshy and light green, with visible dark green veins. The thin skin makes the leaves almost transparent, allowing light to pass through the leaf tips like windows (hence its common name).  

In its native habitat, Window Haworthia grows in partial shade under other plants or overhanging rocks. The transparent leaves allow light to penetrate into the plant, making photosynthesis more efficient in low-light conditions.

Its compact size and tolerance of lower-light conditions make Window Haworthia the perfect succulent for small spaces. 

Haworthiopsis reinwardtii

Haworthiopsis reinwardtii features dark green leaves with white bumpy striping typical of the genus. The cylindrical leaves are slightly curved, start wide at the base and grow narrower towards a pointed tip. They grow in a spiral form around a central stem, creating a tight columnar rosette. It produces offsets around the base, creating a dense clump of columns.

Donkey’s tail (Sedum morganianum) 

There are two very similar forms of this popular sedum available on the market. The first is the natural species form, Sedum morganianum (Donkey’s tail), with short pointy leaves. The other is a cultivar, Sedum morganianum ‘Burrito’ (Burro’s tail), with short rounded leaves. Other than the leaf shape, the plants are identical.

Both varieties have trailing stems bearing closely-spaced rows of blue-green leaves. The stems grow on average to 24 inches (60 cm) long but can sometimes reach as long as 4 feet (120 cm). Donkey’s tail is often grown in hanging baskets to highlight its trailing habit.

The leaves on Donkey’s tail are very sensitive and tend to fall off easily when the plant is moved or disturbed. So, it’s best to find the perfect spot for it and then leave the plant alone except to add water.

Panda Plant; Chocolate soldier plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa)

The Panda Plant is a very popular interesting succulent variety. It has pale green leaves covered in fuzzy silver-white hairs, and the leaves are rimmed with chocolate brown spots (which give the plant one of its common names).

Panda Plant is not cold hardy nor does it like extreme heat. When growing this plant indoors, avoid spots exposed to cold drafts from air conditioners or drafty winter doorways, or hot air blasts from winter heat sources.

When watering this Kalanchoe, be careful to add water to the soil and not onto the leaves. Water drops left on the leaves can cause the leaf to rot.

Florist’s Kalanchoe; Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)

Florist’s Kalanchoe is a popular houseplant grown mainly for its tight clusters of star-shaped flowers in vivid colors of red, yellow, orange, pink or white. It flowers about every six months, in late fall to early winter, but may bloom at other times of year. Flowering lasts for six weeks.

Snake Plant or Snakeskin Plant (Dracaena trifaciata, formerly Sansevieria trifaciata)

The Snake plant is a tropical succulent and a popular choice for low light spaces. It’s almost indestructible, tolerant of dry indoor air, mild drafts and short periods of drought. They’re also a  great plant for improving indoor air quality.

On top of all that, they can grow quite happily when rootbound, so they don’t need frequent repotting. What’s not to like!

The only things snake plants are sensitive to are over-watering and long exposures to temperatures near freezing. These can both spell disaster for snake plant.

There are several different varieties of snake plant. There are short ones with fleshy leaves, perfect for an office desk or small apartment. Others have tall slender stiff foliage that make a statement in large open spaces. The tall snake plant varieties are perhaps the most familiar. 

All varieties have the classic wavy horizontal stripes that give the plant its common name. Some are variegated with yellow edges, others have blue-green silvery leaves.

Certain varieties are more tolerant of low-light conditions than others, so care should be taken when selecting which to buy.

Thanksgiving Cactus (Zygocactus truncatus), Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi ) and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri)

There are three tropical succulents that look very similar but are often mislabeled: The Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata or Zygocactus truncatus), the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) and the Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri). Their common names refer to the approximate times of year when they flower. They are all members of the cactus family (Cactaceae) but unlike cacti native to desert habitats, these three are tropical cacti native to tropical forests, and have very different growing requirements.

These tropical cacti differ from the desert members of the family.  These succulents are native to shady rainforests of southern Brazil, rather than hot arid regions. They are epiphytes, meaning they grow in the crevices of trees with decaying plant material, not in soil. They prefer more shade and like their soil kept evenly moist.

The plants we see full of flower buds for sale in florists and garden centres in November, usually labeled “Christmas cactus” are, in fact, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). The true Christmas cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi, but it isn’t often available because it blooms in late December into January (too late for the commercial holiday market.)

The third plant is the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri). As its name suggests, it blooms in April/May.

They all bloom at specific times of year in response to reduced daylight hours. They’re known as “short day plants” (or long nights) and require 6-12 weeks of days 12 hours or shorter, which starts around mid-October. (Commercial growers can delay flowering with the use of artificial lights to simulate extended daylight). Easter cactus is triggered to bloom as the days begin getting longer following several weeks of shorter days.

They all have flat segmented stems (no true leaves) and look very similar but have subtle differences in the shape of each segment. The Thanksgiving cactus has pointy claw-shaped tips along the edges of each segment. On the Christmas cactus these tips are more rounded and tear-drop shaped. The Easter cactus segments are more scallop-shaped without distinguished points, and have fibrous hairs growing from the leaf joints.

These plants  are grown for their showy long segmented tubular flowers that grow from the tip of each stem. Depending on the variety, the flowers may be light to dark pink, white or red. Dead-heading spent flowers will encourage more blooms.

Air plants (Tillandsia sp)

Air plants are unique and unlike other tropical houseplants. Instead of growing in soil, they grow roots to cling onto tree trunks or branches. Some even grow on cacti in the desert. They can also cling onto rocks or even buildings.

What makes them unique is that they don’t take up nutrients or moisture through their roots. Instead, they absorb what they need from the air – hence their common name – through specialized hairy growths (called trichomes) on their leaves. These trichomes also reduce moisture loss from the leaves, reflect sunlight, and keep the plants from overheating.

Air plants grow in a rosette of long leaves that form a wide bulb at the base and get thinner towards the tips that are often curly. Many of them look like silvery squid with lots of tentacles, while others are flatter and fan-shaped.

Air plants are native to forests, mountains and desert regions of tropical and subtropical zones of North and South America. In the US, they can be found growing in many states, including Florida, California, Texas and Georgia. In fact, the familiar Spanish moss seen growing from tree branches across the Southern US, Mexico and South America is a type of air plant, Tillandsia usneoides.

There are two groups of air plants: Those that are native to humid or semi-humid forest habitats (the “Mesic” group), and those from drier alpine and desert-like climates (the “xeric” group). It’s important to know which variety you have so you know how to maintain them.

Mesic air plants like medium humidity, need more frequent watering and prefer bright indirect sunlight or filtered light (e.g. through sheer curtains). They have smooth deep green leaves with few visible trichomes. 

Xeric air plants come from drier conditions, are much more drought tolerant and can handle some direct sun. Their leaves are thickly covered with trichomes, giving the foliage a silvery green, often fuzzy, appearance. 

To water an air plant, use a spray bottle set on “mist” to thoroughly wet all the foliage. You can also float your air plant in a bowl of room-temperature water for several hours.

Since air plants absorb nutrients along with moisture through their leaves, they like to be watered with “dirty” water such as from a rain barrel, lake or pond, or even a bird bath. Tap water should be left to sit for 24 hours to allow any chlorine or other additives to evaporate.

Getting your Tillandsia to bloom can be a bit challenging. The conditions, including light, temperature and humidity, need to be just right. With proper attention to these details, air plants will reward you with outstanding long-lasting flowers in shades of red, pink, purple, orange or yellow.

They flower only once in their lifetime. After they flower, they produce offsets (or “pups”) at the base of the parent plant (and the parent plant dies away.) Once these offsets are about 1 third the size of the parent plant, they can be gently detached to grow as separate plants. They can be left in place to grow as a clump.

Aeonium ‘Kiwi’; A. ‘Tricolor’; A. ‘Dream color’ (Aeonium haworthia ‘Kiwi’)

Aeonium ‘Kiwi’ is a cultivar of Aeonium haworthia native to the Canary Islands off the north-west coast of Africa. ‘Kiwi’ has tricolor, variegated leaves that grow in a rosette 3-5 inches (7-12 cm) across, similar-looking to Hens and Chicks. The pointed spoon-shaped leaves are creamy yellow in the centre, fading to light green at the edges. When exposed to bright sun, the leaf edges turn bright pink.

When grown outdoors where temperatures allow, it prefers cool morning sun or dappled shade. As a houseplant, place it in a south-facing window for the best coloration.

‘Kiwi’ is considered drought tolerant but prefers more frequent watering than succulent varieties native to arid regions. It grows actively in late winter and spring, and then often goes dormant during the hottest summer months.

Over time, ‘Kiwi’ will grow tall bare and branching stems, each topped with a rosette. Plants will grow as tall as their container size allows, to a maximum of 3 feet (90 cm). It can be pruned to keep it compact, with the cut stems used to propagate new plants.