Propagating Succulents from Leaves or Stem Cuttings: As Easy as 1-2-3

Succulents are a popular group of plants [LINK to Succulents Article #1, Guide to Succulents] for growing indoors and outdoors in the garden. They come in a variety of interesting colors, shapes, and sizes to suit any home decor or garden design.[LINK to Article #4, Design Ideas]

They’re also a great choice for beginners or those of us with a never-ending to-do list to worry about; succulents are easy to grow and can tolerate neglect. We all forget to water out plants once in a while! 

Succulents are also some of the easiest plants to propagate, using leaves or stem cuttings from a mature plant. So once you have one succulent, you can readily expand your collection – and you’ll probably want to! As with all houseplants, be sure you choose varieties that are non-toxic [LINK to Article #5 “Are Succulents Safe for Your Pets”) to small children and four-legged family members. 

In this article, I’ll take you through the steps of succulent propagation so you can grow more of your favorites from the plants you already have – or from the plants your friends might be willing to share!

(Note that all cacti are succulents but the steps to propagate them are a little different than other succulents. This article won’t include specifics about cactus propagation.)

What Is Propagation?

Put simply, propagation is the process of growing new plants. There are two types of propagation: Sexual (i.e. from seed) and asexual (using parts of an existing plant to grow new plants). Asexual propagation is also referred to as “vegetative propagation” because it uses a mature plant’s vegetative parts – the roots, stems or leaves – to grow new plants.

Succulents are most often grown using vegetative propagation rather than growing them from seed.

Succulent Propagation Methods

In their native habitat, succulents don’t often flower and produce viable seeds because they need very specific pollinators. Instead, succulents generally self-propagate through vegetative propagation. 

In nature, succulents drop leaves from a mature plant down onto the ground below. These leaves eventually form roots and grow into new plants.

Succulents may also self-propagate by growing new plants (called plantlets) along their leaf edges or around the base of a mature plant (offsets or pups).

These are all natural methods of vegetative propagation that can be duplicated by the home gardener.

Growing Succulents Using Vegetative Propagation

Vegetative propagation of succulents can be done using different parts of the plant:

• Leaf cuttings
• Stem cuttings
• Offsets or plantlets 

Which part of the plant you choose to use will depend on the variety of succulent you want to propagate.

Leaf Cuttings

Leaf cuttings are complete leaves that have been removed from the parent plant. The leaf cutting method is good for plants that have distinct individual leaves such as Jade plant or Echiveria [LINK to Article # 6].

Succulent varieties whose leaves fall off easily when disturbed are also the best choices for taking leaf cuttings. Varieties whose leaf stems tend to bend rather than snap off easily are better candidates to propagate from stem cuttings.

Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings can be taken by cutting off the growing tip of a stem or removing a whole stem or side shoot. A whole stem is sometimes cut into smaller pieces to propagate several new plants.

The stem cutting method is good for succulents that have a branching growth habit such as some Aeoniums. It’s also a good method for plants that have grown tall and “leggy” with a cluster of leaves at the top of a bare stem, having lost all the lower leaves.

Offsets

Many varieties of succulents naturally multiply themselves by growing new plants called “offsets” (or pups) around the base of a mature plant or on shallow horizontal roots extending from a mature plant.

Offsets grow on many succulent varieties. They start life attached to the parent plant and then develop their own set of roots. Offsets – along with their roots – can be separated from the parent plant and planted into fresh soil to grow new plants.

Plantlets

Plantlets are tiny new plants that grow from leaf tips or along the edges of leaves on a mature plant. In nature, they drop off the parent plant and onto the soil below, where they root and grow into new plants.

When the surrounding air is humid enough, plantlets may develop aerial roots (roots that grow into the air instead of soil) while still attached to the parent plant. These plantlets can be removed from the parent plant and planted with their aerial roots directly into soil.

Growing Succulents From Seed

Growing succulents from seed is possible, but it isn’t usually the method of choice for a number of reasons. First of all, plants rarely produce viable seeds.  Secondly, seeds don’t always grow true to the parent plant (i.e. they don’t look the same). Lastly, reliable sources of viable succulent seeds can be difficult to find. Even when viable seeds can be sourced, it can be challenging.

Succulent Seeds Hard to Work With

Growing succulents from seed can be challenging. Most succulent seeds – other than some cacti –  are very small, almost dust-like. This makes them difficult to work with.

Results Unpredictable

Most varieties of succulents available for sale are human-bred cultivars. Seeds produced by these cultivars won’t necessarily grow true to the parent plant (i.e. they may not look the same). So, growing from seed won’t have predictable results. If you want to propagate a particular succulent variety with specific characteristics, it’s better to propagate from cuttings (See below).

Slow process

Succulent seeds are slow to germinate, taking anywhere from 3 weeks to a year. And because some succulent varieties are slow-growing, it can take several years for a plant grown from seed to reach its mature size.

Fussy About Conditions

Succulent seeds are very sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, humidity and soil moisture. It’s difficult for a home gardener to artificially maintain the perfect conditions for the long slow germination process.

As a result, succulents are rarely grown from seed. For the home gardener – and many commercial growers – it’s easier, faster and more reliable to use vegetative propagation methods.

Vegetative Propagation of Succulents Step-by-Step

What you’ll need:

• Seed-starting tray or several small 2” (5 cm) pots with drainage holes
• Well-draining potting mix (labelled for succulents/cacti)
• Sharp knife or pruners (for stem cuttings)
• Spray bottle with both stream and mist settings
• Rooting hormone (optional)

1. Prepare Planting Trays

You can propagate succulents in large trays of soil and then transplant your new young plants to individual pots once they’ve grown to a decent size. Alternatively, you can skip the big tray and just start each cutting in its own individual pot. A pot no more than 2” (5 cm) will be sufficient to grow a new plant for its first year.

Fill the tray or pots with a well-draining potting mix. The mix must be well-draining to prevent root rot of young succulents. Use a commercial mix labeled for succulents or cacti. You can also blend your own mix.[LINK to Article #2 ] OR create a sidebar with a succulent potting mix recipe (Same sidebar as used in Article #2)

At this stage, you won’t be adding water to the soil but your large tray or individual pots will need to have proper drainage for later stages in the growth process.

2. Take a Leaf or Stem Cutting

Leaf or stem cuttings should be taken in the spring or early summer, when the mature plant is actively growing. The plant will heal over the cuts more quickly (See below, “Allow Cuttings to Callus Over”). Also, when a plant is dormant (i.e. not actively growing) its internal chemistry is different; cuttings taken at this time are less likely to grow successfully.

Leaf Cuttings

Leaves taken for cuttings should be removed starting from the bottom of the plant. Choose only plump healthy leaves with no damage or signs of disease.

To remove a leaf, hold it at the base between your thumb and forefinger and gently twist it until it snaps off the plant. Be sure you remove the whole leaf right down to where it attaches to the main stem. You don’t want to have any tears in the leaf or pieces left behind on the stem. Partial leaves won’t propagate.

Stem Cuttings 

You can take stem cuttings from several locations on a mature plant, using a clean sharp knife or clippers. One option is to cut off a growing tip – the top few inches – of a stem. An entire large stem or side branch can also be cut off. Sometimes the large stem cutting is then cut into smaller 2-3 inch (5 – 7.5 cm) pieces. In all cases, a stem cutting should include several healthy leaves.

If you cut a large stem into smaller pieces, each piece should have 3 to 5 leaves attached at the top end of the stem. The rest of the leaves are removed, leaving the lower portion of the stem bare. The bare portion should be about  2 inches (5 cm) long, and include multiple leaf nodes (where old leaves were attached). 

Varieties with tall or trailing stems may sometimes grow aerial roots from leaf nodes. These stems can be severed just below the aerial roots to create a cutting that can be planted with its roots in soil right away.

When taking stem cuttings, be sure to use a sharp knife or clippers that have been sterilized. This will help prevent the spread of bacteria or fungal disease into the cuttings or the mother plant through the fresh cuts.

3. Allow Cuttings to Callus Over

When you take leaf or stem cuttings, the fresh-cut edges will be moist – that’s all the water the succulents have stored in their leaves and stems. It’s essential to give these fresh-cut edges time to dry up and heal over as the first step in propagation.

A thin dry skin called a “callus” will develop over the cut end and seal it like a scab on our skin. This callus protects the cutting from bacterial infection and disease when it is eventually planted into soil. 

This drying process is known as “callusing off” (or callusing over) and takes 3 to 5 days. The larger the cut surface, the longer it will take to callus over.

To allow the callusing process to take place, put the cuttings on top of the soil in the prepared tray or individual pots. If this soil isn’t completely dry – which it needs to be at this stage – then instead, place the cuttings on any dry surface; a cardboard tray, an egg carton, or a cookie sheet lined with paper towel.

4. Apply Rooting Hormone (optional) 

Many succulent cuttings will readily develop new roots but some varieties take much longer than others. To speed up the process, you can use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth. It is applied to the cutting after the end has callused over.

It’s important to use the right strength of rooting hormone for your succulent cuttings. If the hormone concentration is too high, it can end up damaging the cutting and roots won’t grow.

5. Carefully Dampen the Soil

Once the cuttings have callused over, they need to be placed on slightly moistened potting mix. It’s the humidity generated by the moist mix that stimulates the development of new roots from the callused cuttings. The soil should only be slightly damp to the touch; too wet and the cuttings will rot instead of root.

If you didn’t dry your cuttings lying on the prepared potting mix, use a spray bottle on the “mist” setting to evenly moisten the whole surface of the potting mix. 

If your callused cuttings are already lying on potting mix, set the sprayer to “stream” to apply water to the soil AROUND each cutting. It’s important not to get the cuttings themselves wet and the “stream” setting makes that easier than the “mist” setting.

6. Place Cuttings onto Damp Soil

If your callused cuttings aren’t yet sitting on the tray or individual pots of soil, place the cuttings onto the dampened soil surface. They should be about an inch (2.5 cm) apart in a tray. Leaf cuttings should be placed on the soil curved-side up.

7. Move The Trays into Bright Indirect Light

Once you’ve placed the cuttings onto damp soil, move the tray – or pots – to a location with bright indirect light (i.e. not in direct sun which will burn the cuttings).

Check the soil every day to ensure it remains damp, and add water – sparingly – if needed. Be careful not to knock the cuttings or jostle the tray.  Fine new roots may be growing near the soil surface; these roots are sensitive to movement and can be easily damaged. 

8. Wait For Roots and Plantlets to Grow

This may be the hardest step: waiting! It can take a couple of weeks to well over a month for roots to appear, depending on the succulent variety. As long as the original cutting hasn’t dried out and started to shrivel, there’s still a chance roots will grow. Just be patient. (See also below, “Trouble- Shooting”).

During this stage, try not to disturb the cuttings or jostle the trays or pots. The newly-developing roots are very sensitive and moving the cuttings – like picking them up to check for roots! – can damage the roots.

Leaf Cuttings

New roots will grow from the callused cut, followed by a small plantlet (sometimes a small cluster) growing at the edge of the callus. These young plantlets draw moisture and nutrients from the original leaf cutting. Eventually, you’ll see the old leaf cutting start to shrivel up and die back as the plantlets get bigger.

Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings will eventually grow new roots from the callused cut. They may also develop aerial roots from old leaf nodes along the bare portion of the stem cutting. Once roots are well-developed – about half an inch (1 cm) long – the cutting is ready to be planted into soil.

9. Plant New Plantlets into Soil

Leaf Cuttings

Once the original leaf cutting has dried up and fallen away, the new rooted plantlets in a tray can be repotted into their own small pots, or left to grow on in the tray. 

The roots on a new plantlet sitting on damp soil will eventually find their way down into the soil on their own. However, if the air is particularly dry (i.e. low humidity) and the young roots look like they’re drying up, you can cover them lightly with some damp soil to help them along.

Stem Cuttings

To plant a rooted stem cutting into soil, make a small hole in the soil. The hole should be just slightly wider than the cutting roots, with the depth equal to the length of the root-bearing portion of the cutting.

Holding the cutting gently by the leaf tip, place the rooted portion of the stem into the hole – with the lowest leaf just above soil level – and gently press the soil around the stem so it stands upright on its own.

If you’re planting into a larger tray rather than individual pots, make the holes 1-2 inches (2.5 – 5 cm) apart, depending on how long you’ll be growing the cuttings in the tray. The longer you plan to keep them in a tray, the further apart they should be, to allow room for healthy root growth and top-growth.

Offsets (pups) from Mature Plants

Many succulent varieties reproduce by growing new plants (offsets or pups) at the base of a mature plant. Offsets can also grow on shallow roots growing horizontally away from the mature plant.

These offsets are initially supported by the parent plant but eventually develop their own set of roots. They can then be severed from the mature parent plant and planted into fresh soil.

To cut away offsets that have grown from a horizontal root, gently take hold of the base of the offset at soil level, wiggle it gently and pull it from the soil. If the offset doesn’t lift out of the soil easily, first loosen the soil all around the base with your fingers. You don’t want to damage the offset’s new roots.

10. Don’t Water New Plantlets

After you’ve planted the rooted cuttings into damp soil, don’t water them for a few days. This will give the roots some time to adjust to being in the damp soil.

11. Aftercare

Once you’ve planted your rooted cuttings in soil, place them in bright indirect light. Unlike mature succulents that can tolerate direct sun, newly propagated young plants can be damaged by strong direct sunlight.

A few days after you’ve planted your rooted cuttings, check the soil moisture and lightly water the soil around the plantlets, if needed. The soil should be slightly damp but not too wet (which will rot new young roots).

Give the new plantings a light watering every couple of days, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings. This will encourage the roots to grow out into the soil in search of moisture. Consistent water at this stage will slow down root development.

Watch for new top growth (new leaves) on your young plants. This will be a sign that the plants have developed a healthy new root system. At this stage, ease up on the watering, and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. You can now treat your newly-propagated succulents like mature plants. [LINK to article #2]

Once you see new top growth, cuttings in trays can be transplanted into individual pots, or left to grow on in the tray until they become over-crowded.

Trouble-shooting

Propagating succulents, while fairly straightforward, isn’t always trouble-free. Following are some common problems you may encounter when propagating succulents and how to avoid them.

Cutting Turns Brown and Mushy (rots)

Be sure to choose only healthy mature leaves, with no damage or signs of disease, for your cuttings. If the leaf isn’t healthy from the start, it won’t do well when you propagate it either.

Cuttings that have not been left to callus off adequately before planting into soil often succumb to soil pathogens that were able to enter the leaf or stem through the cut end. Be sure to allow all cuttings to callus off before planting into soil.

If your new cuttings turn brown and mushy at the base soon after planting, it may also be the result of over-watering. Unfortunately, the rot can’t be undone and you’ll need to start the process again with fresh cuttings. To avoid cuttings rotting in the future, be sure to keep the soil moist but not wet or soggy.

Leaf Cuttings Grow Roots But No Plantlets

If you find your leaf cuttings grow roots but then no new plantlets develop, there may be a couple of causes. It may be a succulent variety that takes a long time to grow, in which case you need to be patient and give it time.

Plantlets may also fail to grow because the cuttings aren’t getting enough light. Move the cuttings into bright indirect light.

Newly-planted cutting doesn’t grow

There are many reasons a newly-planted succulent cutting doesn’t grow. The first may simply be that it’s a slow-growing variety. Some of them can take several weeks just to develop a healthy new root system, and then even longer to put on any top growth. Give it time.

Other issues may be the result of the wrong growing conditions for succulents [LINK to Article #2]. Here are some possible causes to consider:

Poor light: Young new succulent plants don’t want to be in strong direct sunlight, but nor do they like it in the dark. If your new young plants look healthy but aren’t putting on any growth, move them to a brighter location in bright indirect light.

Moisture level in soil: The roots on a newly-planted cutting are sensitive to moisture levels. Too little and the roots will dry out. Too much and the roots will rot. Once you’ve planted your cuttings, allow the soil to dry out between waterings, then give the soil a good soak (excess moisture will drain away).

Wrong potting mix or container: If the potting mix doesn’t drain well or holds too much moisture, a cutting’s newly-developing root system may have trouble getting established. Top growth can only begin once there’s a healthy root system to support it. Consider repotting the plantlets into better-draining soil and be sure your containers have adequate drain holes so excess moisture can drain away.

Fungal disease: Some succulent varieties are more prone to fungal diseases, such as certain Echiveria hybrids. Fungal disease spores can enter a cutting if there is an open wound or if the cutting wasn’t left to callus off completely. These spores may be found in soil or even floating in the air, especially outdoors.

To help guard against fungal infections and rot, make sure to leave your cuttings to callus off thoroughly before placing them on damp soil. Use a sterilized potting mix and be careful not to splash water directly on the cuttings. Lastly, if you’re propagating your cuttings outdoors, keep them under cover protected from rain.

Newly-potted plantlet removed from parent plant dies

Plantlets that grow at the base of a mature plant – or from horizontal roots – will eventually develop their own root system.  At this stage, they can be separated from the parent plant and potted in soil. If the plantlet is removed from the parent plant before it develops its own roots, it likely won’t be successful; without its own roots, the cutting will rot.

When you cut a plantlet from a mature plant, make sure it has its own roots before planting it in soil. If it doesn’t have its own roots, treat it like a stem cutting, allowing it first to callus off.

Another reason a plantlet with its own roots doesn’t transplant successfully is that the cutting was taken at the wrong time of year. Be sure to cut plantlets from the parent plant in spring or early summer.